<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>Aussie Organic Gardening</title>
	<atom:link href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com</link>
	<description>My gardening blog</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 23:11:01 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4</generator>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
			<item>
		<title>Organic school gardens</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=854</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=854#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 05:33:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Around the farm...]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cold protection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic school gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seedlings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[what to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[when to grow]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=854</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ As some readers know, I have been kept very busy this year writing the Organic School Gardens program for the Biological Farmers of Australia to teach children how to garden for a sustainable future.
This program is unique, as it is provided free to all schools across Australia – it is non-commercial – it features [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/gloves.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-858" title="gloves" src="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/gloves.jpg" alt="gloves Organic school gardens" width="165" height="143" align="left" /></a> As some readers know, I have been kept very busy this year writing the Organic School Gardens program for the Biological Farmers of Australia to teach children how to garden for a sustainable future.</p>
<p>This program is unique, as it is provided <strong><span style="color: #ff00ff;">free to all schools across Australia</span></strong> – it is non-commercial – it features practical and easy-to-use online resources and lesson plans suitable for Australian schools, plus a separate set of lesson notes for teachers, and<br />
– <span style="color: #ff00ff;">it is the only Australian school garden program written in line with organic standards.</span><br />
BFA&#8217;s program is designed to be adaptable to all schools, including children with special needs and schools with very limited resources, and it is designed to integrate with other subjects in the curriculum, making learning fun and more meaningful for students.<br />
Gardening expertise is not necessary to conduct this program. In going through the lessons and supervisor notes, teachers and volunteers will learn how to garden organically themselves.</p>
<p><span style="color: #ff00ff;"> BFA&#8217;s Organic School Gardens Program can be accessed and downloaded simply by going to </span><a href="http://www.organicschools.com.au/" target="_blank">www.organicschools.com.au</a></p>
<p>The last three lessons in the program will be available to schools at the beginning of October in time for the next school term, and from later this month I will be able to spend more time writing posts for my blog. I&#8217;d like to thank all of you for your patience while I have been working on this project.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=854</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What to grow in September 2010</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=848</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=848#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:12:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruits and Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moon Planting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cuttings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[first quarter moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[full moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[last quarter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunar cycle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunar month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[moon phases]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[new moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic fertilisers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[planting by the moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[September]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[synodic period]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weeds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[what to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[when to sow]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=848</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Weather is warming quickly in Temperate areas. If your area has been warmer than usual, you may find the Warm climate planting guide more accurate, while areas experiencing colder than usual weather would be wise to follow the Cool climate guide until the weather warms. However, keep a close watch on young seedlings as it [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Weather is warming quickly in Temperate areas. If your area has been warmer than usual, you may find the Warm climate planting guide more accurate, while areas experiencing colder than usual weather would be wise to follow the Cool climate guide until the weather warms. However, keep a close watch on young seedlings as it is common for a cold snap to occur after a brief warm period in Spring. <span style="color: #ff00ff;"><em>Please note &#8211; the first week in September is not the best period for germinating seeds this year because the Moon is in Last Quarter phase. Best sowing times are after 8:30 am AEST on 9th.</em></span><br />
The following planting guide is an abbreviated list for vegetables, fruit trees and some culinary herbs that can be planted in August in Australia and New Zealand. A comprehensive monthly guide that includes planting times for the entire garden, as well as when to fertilise, prune, weed, take cuttings or divide plants, can be found in my book <em>Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting</em>.</p>
<p><strong>Warm climate</strong> – <span style="color: #ff00ff;">South of Rockhampton</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, suitable grain crops, lettuce, mizuna, rocket, silver beet, NZ spinach, tatsoi, nasturtium and sunflower can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of pigeon pea, millet, Japanese millet or mung bean, if water is available.<br />
Cabbage, suitable open-headed Chinese cabbage, parsley, spring onions and sweet basil can be sown or planted out.<br />
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, pumpkin and sweet corn can be sown directly into beds, and capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, rockmelon, rosella, summer squash, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown or planted out.<br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichoke, beetroot, carrot, potato (Brisbane and areas south), radish and sweet potato can be sown directly into beds, and asparagus seed, banana passionfruit, passionfruit, pawpaw, and chives can be sown or planted out. Avocado, banana, citrus, tropical and cherry guava, macadamia, passionfruits, marjoram, mint, oregano, sage, and thyme can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>Warm climate</strong> – <span style="color: #ff00ff;">North of Rockhampton</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, suitable cabbage, suitable lettuce, silver beet and NZ spinach can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of pigeon pea, lablab or millet. Parsley, spring onions and sweet basil can be sown or planted out.<br />
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans sweet corn can be sown directly into beds, and capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, rosella and watermelon can be sown or planted out.<br />
During Full Moon phase, beetroot, carrot, radish and sweet potato can be sown directly into beds, and banana passionfruit, passionfruit and pawpaw can be sown or planted out. Avocado, banana, citrus, tropical guava, macadamia, passionfruits, lemongrass and mint can be planted. Also plant marjoram, oregano, sage and thyme where they won&#8217;t become waterlogged.</p>
<p><strong>Temperate climate</strong><br />
Before the Full Moon, suitable Chinese cabbage, grain crops, lettuce, mizuna, rocket, and tatsoi can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of chickpea, clover, barley or millet. Celery, leek, lettuce, silver beet and spring onions can be sown or planted out. Cabbage, parsley and sweet basil can be sown in a cold frame, and NZ spinach, coriander and dill sown direct after frost.<br />
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, and sweet corn can be sown directly into beds, in frost-free areas. Capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, rockmelon, tomato, summer squash, watermelon and zucchini can be sown in a cold frame.<br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichoke, carrot, potato and radish can be sown directly into beds, and asparagus seed, beetroot, sweet potato and chives can be sown in a cold frame. In frost-free areas, banana passionfruit, passionfruit and tropical guava can be planted. After frost, avocado, blueberry, citrus, cherry guava, macadamia, olive, marjoram, oregano, sage, rosemary, French tarragon, thyme and evergreen trees, shrubs and vines can also be planted.</p>
<p><strong>Cool climate</strong><br />
Before the Full Moon, grain crops, lettuce, radicchio and rocket can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of clover, broad beans, field pea, barley, oats, triticale or wheat. Cabbage, celery, bulb fennel, leek, silver beet and spring onions can be sown in a cold frame. In very cold areas, broad beans, peas and spinach can also be sown.<br />
During First Quarter phase, capsicum, cucumber, leek, suitable pumpkin, suitable rockmelon, summer squash, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown in a cold frame, or after frost.<br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichoke, carrot, potato and radish can be sown directly into beds. Asparagus seed and globe artichoke can be sown in a cold frame.<br />
After frost, potted grapes and evergreen trees, shrubs and vines can be planted, and turf can be laid.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=848</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Frangipani in Victoria</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=838</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=838#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Aug 2010 22:58:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ornamentals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cuttings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fertiliser]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[frangipani]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pruning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[when to plant]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[when to prune]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=838</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Now is the perfect time of year to take Frangipani cuttings
 Bill has e-mailed me about growing Frangipani in north-west Victoria – and his question may be of interest to other readers.
Frangipani trees are tropical plants, and your area of Victoria is not an ideal climate for them, because minimum temperatures for most of the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">Now is the perfect time of year to take Frangipani cuttings</span></strong></p>
<p><a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/frangwht11.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-839" title="frangwht1" src="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/frangwht11-150x150.jpg" alt="frangwht11 150x150 Frangipani in Victoria" width="150" height="150" align="left" /></a> Bill has e-mailed me about growing Frangipani in north-west Victoria – and his question may be of interest to other readers.<br />
Frangipani trees are tropical plants, and your area of Victoria is not an ideal climate for them, because minimum temperatures for most of the year are not high enough. Plants grown outside a suitable climate zone are more prone to diseases. There can be, within climate zones, microclimates in protected areas where temperature variations are not as extreme as those in the general area, and plants that need warmer conditions can be grown in these positions &#8211; if you prepared to give them extra care through autumn, winter and spring.<br />
<br /></br><br /></br><br />
The only variety you could possibly grow is the hardier white Frangipani, and you would need to grow that in a position that is protected from wind, and against a north-facing brick wall where the thermal properties of the bricks keep the air around the plant slightly warmer at night. If you find someone in your area who is successfully growing a white frangipani, and is prepared to give you a cutting, now is the perfect time to take frangipani cuttings. See my post on how to prepare <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=146" target="_blank">frangipani cuttings</a> for planting.</p>
<p>Otherwise, I think it might be wiser to choose a different tree that is more suited to the local climate.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=838</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Soil for Magnolias</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=832</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=832#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Aug 2010 07:05:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ornamentals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[alkaline soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard veggies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[humus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Magnolia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moon Planting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic matter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil pH]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=832</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Recently, Anthea wrote to me about the problem of growing her Chinese Magnolia where soil is alkaline.
I was just reading your article on changing soil ph and was hoping you could give me an idea on how to fix a problem I have with my magnolia x soulangeana.
I bought the tree approx 4 years ago [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Recently, Anthea wrote to me about the problem of growing her Chinese Magnolia where soil is alkaline.<br />
<em><span style="color: #3366ff;">I was just reading your article on changing soil ph and was hoping you could give me an idea on how to fix a problem I have with my magnolia x soulangeana.</span></em><br />
<em><span style="color: #3366ff;">I bought the tree approx 4 years ago and, although it has grown well and has good leaf coverage, it has never flowered.  My thoughts at first was that it was still too immature to do so, but I have since discovered that the ph level of our soil is very alkaline (we live on the side of an extinct volcano towards the coast).  Over the last year, I have been trying to reduce the alkalinity of the soil with a general garden sulphur, but this does not seem to have worked.  Once again, no flowers/sepals this year.  I have checked the soil ph again, and it is still as alkaline as it was a year ago.  I do not want to be as drastic as to uproot the tree and replant in an acidic base soil as I am aware that magnolias don&#8217;t take kindly to transplants but I am at a loss as to what else I could do.  Do you have any suggestions as to how to rectify this problem? I live in Mount Gambier in the south east of SA.  Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.</span></em></p>
<p><span style="color: #3366ff;">I</span>t is a long job to reduce very alkaline soil with sulphur alone Anthea, and when soil is very alkaline plants can&#8217;t absorb the nutrients they need to produce flowers (or fruit, in suitable species).</p>
<p>I would try putting some aged cow or horse manure on the soil surface around the tree (keeping it well clear of the trunk) after a thorough watering, and covering the manure with about 5 cm of organic mulch to keep it damp. As the manure (and mulch) break down they will release hydrogen into the soil. The electrically charged hydrogen ions will replace the calcium ions in the soil and the pH will drop. It won&#8217;t happen overnight, but it will happen. One of the problems on dairy farms is that the soil becomes quite acidic due to the constant manure deposits.</p>
<p>Then, when the tree is in leaf, spray the foliage with organic seaweed extract diluted to weak black tea colour. Seaweed is high in potassium that plants require for good flower formation, and it also contains a range of trace elements that plants need but can&#8217;t absorb from alkaline soils. This may be enough to assist flowering next season. I would spray as soon as leaves form and again in early summer.</p>
<p>By the way, volcanic soils are usually rich in nutrients and Plants usually grow well in them when pH is adjusted. As the pH problem is likely to affect your entire garden, it might be worth your while to invest in a pH test kit and and make annual adjustments to your soil where necessary.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=832</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What to grow in August 2010</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=828</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=828#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:36:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruits and Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moon Planting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=828</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In most Warm areas, temperatures are good for gardening, but inland areas are still experiencing chilly nights and gardeners in places like Alice Springs may be more successful if they follow the planting guide for Temperate areas this month.
August weather can be deceptive in other parts of Australia. Perfect gardening weather and milder nights can [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In most Warm areas, temperatures are good for gardening, but inland areas are still experiencing chilly nights and gardeners in places like Alice Springs may be more successful if they follow the planting guide for Temperate areas this month.<br />
August weather can be deceptive in other parts of Australia. Perfect gardening weather and milder nights can be followed by a sudden cold snap (false spring), and gardeners who want to get an early start would be wise to have the materials for a <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/blog/?p=167" target="_blank">cloche</a> on hand.<br />
The following planting guide is an abbreviated list for vegetables, fruit trees and some culinary herbs that can be planted in August in Australia and New Zealand. A comprehensive monthly guide that includes planting times for the entire garden, as well as when to fertilise, prune, weed, take cuttings or divide plants, can be found in my book <em>Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting.</em></p>
<p><strong>Warm climates</strong> – <span style="color: #ff00ff;">South of Rockhampton</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, open-headed Chinese cabbage, grain crops, lettuce, mizuna, silver beet, spring onions, tatsoi and dill can be sown or planted out, and rocket and a green manure crop of wheat can be sown directly into beds. Sow chickpea, nasturtium, and sunflower when soil feels warm to touch.<br />
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, and rosella can be sown. Capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, rockmelon, summer squash, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown in a <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/blog/?p=142" Target="_blank">cold frame</a> or warm, protected area.<br />
During Full Moon phase, carrot, Jerusalem artichoke, potato (Brisbane and areas south), and radish can be sown directly into beds. Asparagus seed, beetroot, rosemary, thyme and watercress can be sown or planted out. Avocado, citrus, macadamia and potted grapes can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>Warm climates</strong> – <span style="color: #ff00ff;">North of Rockhampton</span><br />
Gardeners in very warm areas have time to sow late crops of many varieties.<br />
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, lettuce, parsley, and spring onions can be sown or planted out. Grain crops, NZ spinach, silver beet and sunflower can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of wheat or lablab.<br />
During First Quarter phase, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, parsley, rockmelon, rosella, summer squash, sweet corn, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown or planted out. Bush and climbing beans and sweet corn can be sown directly into beds.<br />
During Full Moon phase, carrot, radish and sweet potato can be sown direct. Avocado, banana, banana passionfruit, citrus and passionfruit can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>Temperate climates</strong><br />
Sowing and planting this month will depend on whether your area is prone to frosts. Gardeners in Temperate areas with access to a cold frame can get an early start this month with some warmth-loving varieties.<br />
Before the Full Moon, grain crops and mizuna can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of clover, field pea, barley, or wheat. Dwarf peas and chamomile can be sown directly into beds in colder areas. Celery, leek and lettuce can be sown in a <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/blog/?p=142" Target="_blank">cold frame</a>.<br />
In frost-free areas, Chinese cabbage, rocket, silver beet, spring onions, tatsoi and coriander can also be sown directly into beds.<br />
During First Quarter phase, capsicum, cucumber, leek and tomato can be sown in a cold frame.<br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichoke and potato can be sown directly into beds; also carrot in frost-free areas. Asparagus seed and beetroot can be sown in a cold frame. In frost-free areas, rosemary, thyme, avocado, and potted grapes can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>Cool climates</strong><br />
August is still too cold and frosty for most plantings.<br />
Before the Full Moon, English spinach can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of broad bean (Faba bean) or field pea. Celery, leek and lettuce can be sown in a <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/blog/?p=142" Target="_blank">cold frame</a>.<br />
During First Quarter phase, dwarf peas can be sown directly into beds. Tomatoes and chamomile can be sown in a cold frame. In very cold areas, broad beans can be sown. (See post on when to sow Broad beans and peas for your local climate.)<br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichoke and potato can be sown directly into beds, and late season onions can be sown or planted out. Asparagus seed can be sown in a cold frame. Herbaceous perennial crowns can be planted. In very cold areas, deciduous trees, shrubs and vines can be planted.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=828</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Posting Comments</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=825</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=825#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:21:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Around the farm...]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=825</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Due to some sad people (with nothing better to do) cluttering up my blog with very childish comments, we have had to make some changes to this blog. One of the changes, unfortunately, is requiring readers to now register before being able to post any comments.
I welcome genuine comments on this blog and I am [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="color: #f90584;">Due to some sad people (with nothing better to do) cluttering up my blog with very childish comments, we have had to make some changes to this blog. One of the changes, unfortunately, is requiring readers to now register before being able to post any comments.<br />
I welcome genuine comments on this blog and I am happy to answer any gardening questions you might have, whether they are posted as comments or sent to me directly as e-mails. – </span><em><span style="color: #f90584;">Happy organic gardening – Lyn</span></em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=825</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What to grow in July 2010</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=818</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=818#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Jul 2010 11:17:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruits and Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moon Planting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cuttings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[first quarter moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[full moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[July]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[last quarter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunar cycle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunar month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[moon phases]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[new moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic fertilisers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[planting by the moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[synodic period]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weeds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[when to sow]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=818</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The following planting guide is an abbreviated list for vegetables, fruit trees and some culinary herbs that can be planted in June in Australia and New Zealand. A comprehensive monthly guide that includes planting times for the entire garden, as well as when to fertilise, prune, weed, take cuttings or divide plants, can be found [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The following planting guide is an abbreviated list for vegetables, fruit trees and some culinary herbs that can be planted in June in Australia and New Zealand. A comprehensive monthly guide that includes planting times for the entire garden, as well as when to fertilise, prune, weed, take cuttings or divide plants, can be found in my book <em>Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting</em>.</p>
<p><strong>WARM CLIMATE</strong> – <span style="color: #ff00ff;">South of Rockhampton</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, grains can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of red clover. Cabbage and spring onions can be sown. Lettuce and silverbeet can be sown in a cold frame.<br />
During First Quarter phase, tomatoes can be sown in a cold frame.<br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichokes, radish and turnip can be sown directly into beds, as well as potatoes in Brisbane and areas south. Beetroot can be sown in a cold frame. Asparagus and rhubarb crowns, fig, pistachio and other deciduous trees and vines can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>WARM CLIMATE</strong> – <span style="color: #ff00ff;">Rockhampton northwards</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, open Chinese cabbage, grains, lettuce, mizuna, rocket, silver beet, tatsoi, chamomile, coriander and sunflower can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of lablab or corn.<br />
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, popcorn and sweet corn can be sown directly into beds, and pumpkin, spring onion, summer squash, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown or planted out. Capsicum and eggplant can be sown in a cold frame.<br />
During Full Moon phase, beetroot, radish, turnip can be sown directly into beds, and avocado, banana, fig and pistachio can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>TEMPERATE CLIMATE</strong><br />
Before the Full Moon, a green manure crop of broad bean (faba bean) or field pea can be sown. In a cold frame, sow celery and lettuce. In frost-free areas, suitable lettuce and spring onions can also be sown or planted out. English spinach can be sown directly into beds in colder areas.<br />
During First Quarter phase, dwarf broad beans and peas can be sown directly into beds. <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=106" target="_blank">Sowing peas and broad beans</a><br />
During Full Moon phase, Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, potatoes and radish can be sown directly into beds, and mid season onion seedlings, asparagus and rhubarb crowns, kiwifruit, pistachio and other deciduous trees and vines can be planted. In frost-free areas, fig can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>COOL CLIMATE</strong><br />
Before the Full Moon, English spinach can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of broad bean (faba bean) or field pea.<br />
During First Quarter phase, dwarf broad beans and peas can be sown directly into garden beds (see link above to the post on when to sow Broad beans and peas for your local climate).<br />
During Full Moon phase, late season onions can be sown, and asparagus and rhubarb crowns, deciduous fruit trees and vines can be planted where frosts are not severe. In cold areas that receive winter rain, it is better to delay sowing potatoes until August.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=818</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>5</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Children&#8217;s gloves</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=813</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=813#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jun 2010 01:41:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Around the farm...]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[children's gloves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening gloves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kid's New Zealand gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic school gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seedlings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[work gloves]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=813</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As you may know, I am involved in producing the Organic School Garden program for the Biological Farmers of Australia. One of our problems has been finding a source for gardening gloves made from natural materials that are available in sizes to suit primary school children.
However, a company called Esidirect is prepared to supply gloves [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As you may know, I am involved in producing the Organic School Garden program for the Biological Farmers of Australia. One of our problems has been finding a source for gardening gloves made from natural materials that are available in sizes to suit primary school children.<br />
However, a company called Esidirect is prepared to supply gloves provided that Esidirect receives enough orders within the next 4 weeks to warrant production, as these gloves will be an entirely new product.<br />
Esidirect accepts orders from schools and is prepared to <strong>offer schools a 10% discount</strong> for gloves and anything else ordered from their website at the same time <strong>for the next 4 weeks only*</strong>.<br />
Gloves will be available in two sizes at <strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">$3.60 per pair</span></strong><br />
<strong>Childglove5</strong> – that will suit most 8–10 year old students and<br />
<strong>Childglove7</strong>– that will suit 11–13 year old students. (<em>Click on image to enlarge</em>.)</p>
<div id="attachment_814" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/EDgloves2.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-814" title="EDgloves2" src="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/wp-content/uploads/EDgloves2-300x279.jpg" alt="Esidirect gloves" width="300" height="279" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Esidirect gloves</p></div>
<p>The gloves are made from natural cowhide leather with denim fabric backs and cuffs – exactly like adult work gloves, but in smaller sizes.<br />
<strong>Schools can order from Esidirect by calling: </strong><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">1300 446 707</span></strong><br />
Esidirect supplies a wide range of gloves and safety equipment. We use their Rigger gloves when digging, weeding etc. in the garden and we find that they provide good grip control, are very comfortable to wear, and good value. For work that needs a more delicate touch, such as repotting seedlings, Esidirect also supply Ninja gloves and disposable latex gloves. You can see their full range at: <a href="http://www.esidirect.com.au" target="_blank"><span style="color: #ff0000;">Esidirect</span></a><br />
*Esidirect have a fixed delivery charge of $9.95 for all orders.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=813</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Derris dust</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=808</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=808#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 01:35:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pest-free Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[carbamates]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[derris dust]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[disease prevention]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[diseases]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden pests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organophosphates]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pest predators]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pesticides]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rotenone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=808</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Following my post on organophosphates and ADHD, one of my blog readers asked for more information about derris dust (rotenone) that has been popular with organic gardeners for pest control as rotenone is an organic pesticide made from the roots of a tropical plant. It also has a long history as a piscicide (fish killer).
Rotenone [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Following my post on organophosphates and ADHD, one of my blog readers asked for more information about derris dust (rotenone) that has been popular with organic gardeners for pest control as rotenone is an organic pesticide made from the roots of a tropical plant. It also has a long history as a piscicide (fish killer).<br />
Rotenone works by shutting down energy production in cells, which makes it a neurotoxin. Research linked it with Parkinson&#8217;s Disease, but this was largely discounted as the rats in the research had rotenone injected directly into their brains, which is not a very fair trial.<br />
In 2007, the USEPA published a Re-registration Eligibility Decision (RED) assessing only the risks of contact from its use as a piscicide (i.e. swimming in or drinking treated water). The RED stated that small children and foetuses were more susceptible to the effects of rotenone.<br />
<a href="http://www.environmentalhealthnews.org/ehs/blog/health-ecosystem-effects-of-rotenone-ignored" target="_blank"> www.environmentalhealthnews.org/ehs/blog/health-ecosystem-effects-of-rotenone-ignored</a><br />
According to Environmental Health News, researchers have found that rotenone selectively destroys dopamine-producing cells in petri dishes. (The full document on this research must be purchased).<br />
In 2010, another study was published about research in mice that showed a progression of Parkinson&#8217;s-like symptoms after mice were fed low doses of rotenone over a period of time. The research found that concentrations in the central nervous system were below detectable limits, yet still induced Parkinson&#8217;s Disease pathology.<br />
<a href="http://www.mitochondrial.net/showabstract.php?pmid=19409896" target="_blank"> www.mitochondrial.net/showabstract.php?pmid=19409896</a><br />
<a href="http://precedings.nature.com/documents/3352/version/3 " target="_blank"> precedings.nature.com/documents/3352/version/3</a></p>
<p>Australia&#8217;s APVMA has reviewed rotenone and decided that it can still be used as a pesticide. However, both Canada and the United States are phasing out the use of rotenone for everything except its use as a fish poison. In Canada, for example, rotenone could not be sold for livestock, gardening, or domestic pet use after the end of 2008, and existing stocks can&#8217;t be used after the end of 2012.<br />
<a href="http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/pubs/pest/_decisions/rev2008-01/index-eng.php" target="_blank"> www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/pubs/pest/_decisions/rev2008-01/index-eng.php</a></p>
<p>I certainly don&#8217;t recommend the use of Derris dust, but gardeners must make their own evaluations of this pesticide.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=808</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>1</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>What to grow in June 2010?</title>
		<link>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=804</link>
		<comments>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=804#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jun 2010 06:28:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>lyn</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Fruits and Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Moon Planting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Aussie gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Australian gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[backyard vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[climate change gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cuttings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[easy organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmentally friendly gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[first quarter moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruit]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[full moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[growing vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Healthy soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to grow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[June]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[last quarter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunar cycle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lunar month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[moon phases]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[new moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New Zealand]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic fertilisers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[planting by the moon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[propagating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[synodic period]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[weeds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[when to sow]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?p=804</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Plant varieties for sowing and planting are fairly similar for both June and July in most climate zones of Australia. Peas and broad beans should be sown at a time that will avoid frost damaging the flowers see: Broad beans and peas)
Sowing times are more flexible when sowing peas or broad beans as a green [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Plant varieties for sowing and planting are fairly similar for both June and July in most climate zones of Australia. Peas and broad beans should be sown at a time that will avoid frost damaging the flowers see: <a href="http://aussieorganicgardening.com/blog/?p=106" target="_blank">Broad beans and peas</a>)<br />
Sowing times are more flexible when sowing peas or broad beans as a green manure because these crops are cut down as soon as the plants start to flower.<br />
The following planting guide is an abbreviated list for vegetables, fruit trees and some culinary herbs that can be planted in June in Australia and New Zealand. A comprehensive monthly guide that includes planting times for the entire garden, as well as when to fertilise, prune, weed, take cuttings or divide plants, can be found in my book <em>Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting</em>.</p>
<p><strong>WARM CLIMATE</strong> – <span style="color: #800080;">South of Rockhampton</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, and grains can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of barley, chickpea, red clover, broad bean (faba bean), field pea, or triticale. Lettuce, radicchio, English spinach and spring onions can be sown or planted out.<br />
During First Quarter phase, dwarf peas can be sown directly into beds.<br />
During Full Moon phase, radish and turnip can be sown directly into beds, as well as potatoes north of Brisbane. Asparagus and rhubarb crowns, fig, kiwi fruit, pecan and pistachio can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>WARM CLIMATE</strong> – <span style="color: #800080;">Rockhampton northwards</span><br />
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, open Chinese cabbage, grains, lettuce, mizuna, rocket, silver beet, tatsoi, chamomile and coriander can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of barley, corn, lablab, or triticale.<br />
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, popcorn and sweet corn can be sown directly into beds, and pumpkin, spring onion, summer squash, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown or planted out.<br />
During Full Moon phase, beetroot, radish, turnip can be sown directly into beds, and fig and pistachio can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>TEMPERATE CLIMATE</strong><br />
Before the Full Moon, English spinach can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of broad bean (faba bean) or field pea. In frost-free areas, lettuce and spring onions can also be sown or planted out.<br />
During First Quarter phase, broad beans and peas can be sown directly into beds.<br />
During Full Moon phase, garlic and radish can be sown directly into beds, and mid season onion seedlings, asparagus and rhubarb crowns, kiwifruit and pistachio can be planted. In frost-free areas, fig can be planted.</p>
<p><strong>COOL CLIMATE</strong><br />
Planting is extremely limited during both June and July. Before the Full Moon, English spinach can be sown directly into beds, as well as a green manure crop of broad bean (faba bean) or field pea. Broad beans and peas grown as a vegetable can be sown during First Quarter phase (see link to the post on when to sow Broad beans and peas for your local climate).<br />
During Full Moon phase, mid and late season onions can be sown, and asparagus and rhubarb crowns can be planted, also deciduous fruit trees and vines where frosts are not severe.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://aussieorganicgardening.com/?feed=rss2&amp;p=804</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
