As described in my book, Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting, to catch snails and slugs, you only need a small amount of beer in the bottom of a plastic jar, or yoghurt or dip container that is buried in soil under mulch. Bury the container at an angle with the lip of the jar just above soil level so that it is easier for the slimy creatures to enter the jar.
You don’t have to buy beer especially, as these pests are are attracted to the yeast smell of beer. It does not matter if the beer is flat. You can keep left over beer in a screw top jar in the fridge for topping up snail traps as required.
Use plastic containers, not glass, as glass can shatter in a hail storm, scattering shards and beer in all directions. Beer in soil is very detrimental to earthworms.

Our strawberries are producing exceptionally well this year. So far, they have supplied a steady crop, and a couple of times I’ve harvested 3 kilos in a week from our 1 x 2.5 metre patch, – and that doesn’t include the ones that the slugs have dined on. (I’ve been so busy I haven’t got around to putting in a couple of beer traps yet.) The patch has produced far too many strawberries for us, and the excess has been made into jam, or frozen (in 500g batches) for strawberry daiquiris at Christmas or for further batches of jam. When I prepare our next strawberry bed, I will make it smaller because the grandchildren now have their own strawberry patch.

I’ve had several questions recently about growing strawberries. In cool and temperate areas, strawberries are fruiting or coming into fruit while in warmer climates strawberries produce best through the cooler months. At this time of year, there are a few things you can do to improve the quality of your strawberry crop.
• Maintain regular deep watering – but don’t over-water fruiting plants – use the finger test to check soil dampness.
• Pick fruit regularly. Rotting fruit encourages disease.
• Place a plant marker beside the best producers so that you can take runners from the healthiest plants when cropping finishes.
• If you notice fruit is becoming sunburned, you can set up a tent fly of 30-50 percent shadecloth to protect fruit from the sun during the hottest part of the day. The fly has to be high enough to allow good air circulation, or foliage diseases can occur. The tent fly also deters birds that love eating strawberries.
• A drink of seaweed extract tea, applied to the soil around the plants will build resistance to disease and improve the quality of fruit.
• If plants have leaf spot, remove and dispose of damaged leaves in a sealed plastic bag, then spray foliage mid morning with one cup of strained chamomile tea diluted to 500 ml. and, in future, only water plants early in the day.
• Add a couple of beer traps if snails or slugs are a problem.
You can start preparing next year’s strawberry bed next month, and I will post some tips on getting the best out of your strawberry bed.

Broad beans
As I mentioned in an earlier post, our broad beans were slow to produce pods because of an unusually cold winter. Broad beans are a combination of self-pollination and cross-pollination, and our broad beans do not start to set pods until bees become active in the garden.
Broad beans cease producing flowers when day temperatures are high (or when some pods have been allowed to reach maturity). Despite the shorter harvesting period this year, our small bed produced more broad beans than we could eat. During the harvesting period, I marked several of the healthiest plants and allowed the pods on these plants to fully mature for seed. In the photo below, the bean pods on the left are a perfect size to pick for use as a vegetable. The seeds in these pods are delicious and tender. Pods left on plants until they become spongy require both shelling and the removal of the outer seed coat.
The pods on the right of the photo are suitable to save as seed. Fully mature pods have lost their spongy feel and have become quite firm. It is recommended to allow pods to dry on the plants. However, as some of the pods were beginning to split (allowing the sun to damage the seeds), and rain was predicted, I brought the selected pods indoors to continue drying for a couple more days. Then I shelled the broad beans, and spread them on a flyscreen rack to continue drying. Seed is dry enough for packaging when firm pressure from a thumbnail will not leave a dent in the seed.

Peas
When saving seed from pea plants, follow the above advice for selecting suitable pods to save. Seed collected from pods near the base of pea plants is considered to be the best, but don’t let that deter you from saving seed if you have already picked those pods. It is best to leave pods on pea plants until seeds rattle within the pods. You will probably have to net the plants, or birds will eat the seed before it is ready to harvest. However, once pods have become thin-skinned and yellow, and rain is predicted, you can pull up the plants and hang them upside down indoors to prevent premature sprouting of seed. (If the pods a close to the base of large plants, I hang a portion of the plant for drying.)
When seeds rattle in their pods, shell them, and spread seeds on a rack for a few more days to ensure they are completely dry.
Please note: unless your choice is extremely limited, only save seed from strong, disease-free plants that produce well-filled pods. If saving seed from pods that have some seeds missing, this characteristic can appear in plants grown from seed from those pods. Discard discoloured seeds and seeds much smaller than average. When seeds are dry enough for packaging, keep them in a paper container, inside a sealed container in a cool spot.

Warm Climates – South of Rockhampton
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, suitable grain crops, suitable lettuce, silver beet, NZ spinach, nasturtium and sunflower can be sown direct, as well as well as a green manure crop of adzuki bean, cowpea, lablab, pigeon pea, soy bean or millet, Japanese millet, mung bean, sorghum or soybean. Parsley, spring onions and sweet and purple basil can be sown or planted out.
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, capsicum, eggplant, pumpkin, rockmelon, spring onions, sweet corn, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown.
During Full Moon phase, beetroot, carrot, radish, banana, banana passionfruit, passionfruit, pawpaw, pineapple, radish, sweet potato, lemongrass and watercress can be sown or planted.

Warm Climates – North of Rockhampton
Sow a green manure crop of adzuki bean, cowpea, lablab, pigeon pea, soybean or millet.
During First Quarter phase, capsicum, eggplant, sweet corn, tomato and watermelon can be sown.
During Full Moon phase, radish and sweet potato can be sown direct. Banana, passionfruit, pawpaw, pineapple, and lemongrass can be sown or planted.

Temperate climates
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, grain crops, leek, lettuce, rocket, silver beet, NZ spinach, spring onions, basil, dill, parsley, coriander and sunflower can be sown, as well as a green manure crop of cowpea, mung bean, pigeon pea, soybean, millet, Japanese millet, or sorghum.
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, rockmelon, rosella, summer squash, sweet corn, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown.
During Full Moon phase, banana passionfruit, beetroot, carrot, passionfruit, pawpaw, potato, radish, sweet potato and watercress can be sown. Asparagus seedlings, banana, mango, pawpaw, mint and lemongrass planted.

Cool climates
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, headed and open Chinese cabbage, bulb fennel, grain crops, mizuna, rocket, silver beet, NZ spinach, tatsoi, dill, nasturtium and sunflower can be sown direct. Brussels sprouts, cabbage, celery, leek, lettuce, parsley, silverbeet, spring onions and chamomile can be sown, as well as a green manure crop of mung bean, soybean, barley, cereal rye, millet or Japanese millet.
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans and sweet corn can be sown direct. Cauliflower, cucumber, suitable pumpkin and rockmelon, summer squash, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown. In warmer areas, capsicum and eggplant can also be sown. In colder areas, sow suitable broccoli.
During Full Moon phase, beetroot, carrot and radish can be sown direct. Asparagus seed, chives, mint, oregano, pyrethrum, rosemary, sage, thyme and watercress can be sown or planted out. Blueberry and cherry guava can be planted. In colder areas, parsnip and lawn seed can be sown, and evergreen shrubs, trees and vines can be planted.

Aminopyralid
A cousin in the UK contacted me recently concerning a major problem that UK organic gardeners and farmers are experiencing. I would like to draw your attention to it because a similar problem could occur here.
The cause of the problem is a hormone-based herbicide (weed killer) Aminopyralid, which is an ingredient in several brands of herbicides produced by Dow Agrosciences. Aminopyralid has become popular because it is only effective against broad-leaf weeds and does not kill grasses. However, the herbicide binds to woody tissue in grasses and remains active in the grass, hay and silage fed to animals. The herbicide survives passage through mammalian digestive systems and remains active in manure produced by animals that consume contaminated feed.
Consequently, the herbicide affects a range of vegetable crops planted where contaminated manures have been added to beds, or where contaminated hay or straw is used as mulch. As soil bacteria begin to decompose the mulch or manure, the herbicide is released into the soil and absorbed by roots of broad-leafed plants.
Symptoms of affected crops are dying seedlings or curled leaves and gross deformity of plants and produce. Susceptible crops include peas, beans and other legumes, carrots and parsnips, potatoes and tomatoes, and lettuce and similar crops. The affected beds remain unusable until soil bacteria have completely broken down the herbicide. As you can imagine, there are a lot of angry gardeners in England and Wales where this problem is endemic, and there are calls to for this product to be banned.
The best Dow Agrosciences can offer is: the levels of amylopyralid in crops “are unlikely to cause a problem to human health”, although the Dow website says: “As a general rule, we suggest damaged produce (however this is caused) should not be consumed.”
Originally the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) advised allotment gardeners that contaminated soil would not be usable for two years. However, more recent information indicates that it can be used as soon as soil bacteria break down the herbicide, so the faster you can get them to do this, the better. Aerobic bacteria that break down organic matter faster than anaerobic bacteria require moisture, air and nitrogen for fast consumption. They work faster in a soil pH that is close to neutral. If soil is acidic, raise soil pH to close to neutral (6.5-7) by watering in agricultural lime. Start with a generous handful per square metre, and mix it through the topsoil. This will also aerate the soil to provide air for the bacteria. Don’t use hydrated or slaked lime (builder’s lime) as this will lose nitrogen from the soil, and the bacteria will work more slowly when soil is low in nitrogen. Check soil pH every six weeks because manures produce hydrogen ions as they break down (making soil more acidic), and turn the topsoil regularly to maintain good aeration. Keep soil just damp. If uncontaminated mulch can be sourced, it can be applied to the bed surface to maintain consistent moisture content and keep soil warmer through the colder months, especially if mulch is applied in the middle of the day when the soil is warmest.

Other herbicide problems
Other herbicides, including glyphosate, increase the risk of soil diseases by damaging the good fungi in soils that keep soil diseases under control. Recent research published by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), found that herbicide-resistant GM crops are causing an increase in “Fusarium” diseases, and predicted that there would be an epidemic of soil diseases and a food crisis, before long. Food crops from plants badly affected by fusarium diseases can also contain the disease fungi, causing a range of health problems, or death, as happened in Mexico some years ago when tortillas made from affected corn were eaten.
Herbicides cause more problems than they solve but many people would rather believe the advertising hype put out by chemical companies because weedkillers look as though they will save the gardener some work. (See post ‘Wilting diseases’ in the Pest-free Gardening category.)

George asked why his cherry guava was not setting fruit although it produces plenty of flowers, and why the growing tips were dying. He didn’t mention which area he lived in, or what fertiliser and watering program the tree has received. There is a variety of causes for these problems.

Perhaps the tree is too young to set fruit. Cherry (or strawberry) guava trees (Psidium cattleianum) are slower growing than tropical guavas, and do not start to produce fruit until about 3 - 4 years after planting out -

Or, maybe frost has affected the flowers. Frost can also cause dying back of young tips, even though mature cherry guavas are reasonably frost hardy.

Although cherry guava are not too fussy about soil, they do grow very well in fertile soil. A lack of calcium will cause both dying of young tips, and premature shedding of blossoms - in other words, soil may be too acid to provide enough calcium. I’d advise testing soil around the tree and, if necessary, raise the soil pH.
Some trace element deficiencies can also cause die back of growing tips, but an application of seaweed extract tea to the soil around the tree should solve this problem.

If the soil is fertile and soil pH is suitable, perhaps the soil has become water repellent and the tree is unable to absorb the nutrients it needs. Or, watering may have been erratic and the tree may be water stressed.

If possible, purchase seedlings for your garden from your local nursery, rather than from gardening departments of large chain stores. Apart from assisting your local economy, you will find that reputable nurseries only stock seedlings that are suitable for your local climate at that time. Companies such as Coles and Bunnings, for example, have a single despatch point for seedlings that are sent to stores all over Australia. Staff at their local stores have no say in ordering seedlings, and must accept whatever is sent.
Not all vegetables and flowering annuals will grow successfully in all climates in the same season. Spring – summer can be too hot in warm climates for some varieties that will grow well in milder climates, while late summer - autumn plantings are only suitable for warmer climates. To avoid frustration and disappointment with your gardening efforts, only purchase seedlings from the large chains when you know exactly which vegetables or flowering annuals are suitable for growing in your area at a particular time.

Frosts are over in most parts of Australia and New Zealand. October is a very busy time for gardeners, and it’s been no exception at our place. I’ve had to neglect my blog lately to catch up with some sowing and planting, and moving the chicken tractor to a more suitable spot for the warmer weather. We are hoping for some rain before our commercial herb crops go in and, judging from the chattering among the frogs, we might get lucky.
Don’t forget to mulch beds early to conserve water and moderate soil temperature.

Warm climate – South of Rockhampton
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, suitable grain crops, suitable lettuce, parsley, silver beet, NZ spinach, spring onions, sweet basil and sunflower can be sown, as well as a green manure crop of cowpea, pigeon pea, lablab, millet, Japanese millet, sorghum, mung bean, or soybean.
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, rockmelon, rosella, sweet corn, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown.
During Full Moon phase, asparagus seed, beetroot, carrot, radish, banana, banana passionfruit, passionfruit, pawpaw, sweet potato, lemongrass and chives can be sown. Avocado, banana, citrus, tropical and cherry guava, macadamia, passionfruit, pawpaw, marjoram, mint, oregano, and sage can be planted.

Warm climate – North of Rockhampton
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, and suitable lettuce can be sown direct. Parsley, NZ spinach and sunflower can be sown, as well as a green manure crop of cowpea, pigeon pea, lablab or millet.
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, capsicum, eggplant, sweet corn, tomato, and watermelon can be sown.
During Full Moon phase, beetroot, carrot, radish, banana, banana passionfruit, passionfruit, pawpaw and sweet potato can be sown. Avocado, banana, citrus, tropical and cherry guava, macadamia, passionfruit, pineapple, and lemongrass, can be planted.

Temperate climate
Before the Full Moon, cabbage, suitable Chinese cabbage, celery, grain crops, leek, lettuce, rocket, NZ spinach, spring onions, tatsoi, basil, dill, parsley and coriander can be sown, as well as a green manure crop of clover, buckwheat, millet, Japanese millet, pigeon pea, soybean or sorghum.
During First Quarter phase, bush and climbing beans, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, rockmelon, summer squash, sweet corn, tomato, watermelon and zucchini can be sown.
During Full Moon phase, asparagus seed, banana passionfruit, beetroot, carrot, Jerusalem artichoke, passionfruit, pawpaw, potato, radish, sweet potato, chives and lawn seed can be sown. Avocado, blueberry, citrus, tropical and cherry guava, macadamia, mango, pawpaw, marjoram, oregano, sage, rosemary, French tarragon, thyme and evergreen trees, shrubs and vines can be planted, and turf laid.

Cool climate
Before the Full Moon, headed and open Chinese cabbage, bulb fennel, grain crops, radicchio, rocket, tatsoi, coriander, dill and sunflower can be sown direct. Cabbage, celery, leek, lettuce, parsley, silverbeet and spring onions can be sown, as well as a green manure crop of clover, barley, cereal rye, millet or wheat. In very cold areas, also sow Brussels sprouts.
During First Quarter phase, capsicum, cucumber, eggplant, leek, spring onions, tomato and chamomile can be sown. Pumpkin, rockmelon, summer squash, watermelon and zucchini can be sown in a cold frame.
During Full Moon phase, carrot, Jerusalem artichoke, potato and radish can be sown direct. Also sow asparagus seed, beetroot and globe artichoke. Blueberry, potted grapes, cherry guava and evergreen shrubs, trees and vines can be planted. also sow lawn seed or lay turf.
After frost, potted grapes and evergreen trees, shrubs and vines can be planted, and turf can be laid.

Hawaiian hibiscus are pruned in spring at the beginning of new growth. This is because these plants are very sensitive to ‘cold snaps’ after pruning, and it is also easier to see just where to prune. In temperate areas, leaving the pruning of Hawaiian hibiscus until the first weekend in October is a good rule of thumb.
Immediately before new growth begins, lower leaves turn bright yellow and fall from the plants, and growth buds swell. Pruning hibiscus during First Quarter phase will result in faster recovery from pruning. Remove all withered branches with sharp secateurs, and also remove any branches pointing towards the centre of the plant. Then reduce the size of each plant by a third, cutting above an outward-facing growth bud.
Finally, give the plants a deep watering, a generous feeding of poultry-based organic fertiliser and a drink of seaweed extract tea. Add some compost to the soil surface, if you have it, and cover it with a 7-8 cm thick layer of organic mulch. Hawaiiian hibiscus are heavy feeders, and will continue to supply large blooms if further light applications of organic fertiliser are given every 6 weeks, or so, until May.
All species of hibiscus other than Alyogynes can be pruned at the same time as Hawaiian hibiscus. Alyogynes are pruned lightly after summer flowering.

Soil fungi that affect the water-carrying parts of the plants cause wilt diseases that can affect a wide range of vegetables, grains, and ornamentals. Fruit trees can also be affected.
To find out which fungus is affecting your plants, pull out (if possible) one of the affected plants and cut open the stem near the roots. If it’s Fusarium wilt, the inside of the stem will be pink to reddish brown. If it’s Verticillium wilt, the inside of the stem will be dark brown to black. Remove all affected plants and dispose of them in a sealed plastic bag. Do this carefully, as spores can be spread by shoes, and gardening tools. These will have to be cleaned after working on the affected bed.
If it is Fusarium wilt, plant some broad beans as a green manure crop in the affected bed. This vegetable has a reputation for deterring Fusarium fungi in soil. According to research recently published by the US Department of Agriculture, Fusarium diseases are becoming a serious problem in GM crops that have been engineered to be glyphosate-resistant. The research found that glyphosate exuding from the roots of this type of GM crops stimulates Fusarium fungi in soil. In wheat, these fungi cause Fusarium Head Blight. Fusarium produces several toxins in plants that are not destroyed by cooking. These become a health problem when present in large quantities. One type causes vomiting. Another type causes cancer and birth defects, while a third type of toxin is lethal. It is important to act to prevent the establishment of Fusarium in garden and agricultural soils.
For Verticillium wilt, improve drainage and control weeds. Give any unaffected plants in the bed a drink of seaweed extract tea as the potassium and trace elements assist in building resistance to disease.
Wilt diseases are commonly caused by not practicing a proper crop rotation. Adding organic matter to soil helps to limit soil-borne diseases because the beneficial fungi in organic matter out compete the pathogens. Avoid using glyphosate because it has been shown to affect the microorganisms in soil that assist in keeping diseases under control.
The following crop rotation will restore health to diseased soils by breaking the reproduction cycle of the fungi:
Crop Rotation