Propagating Strawberries

In our area, propagating strawberries is usually a February job, but plants were late sending out runners this year due to the cooler summer. I like to use runners to grow some new plants each year, as vigorous, young strawberry plants are healthier and more productive. Once the new plants are growing well, I can thin out some of the older plants that are no longer performing well.
While our strawberry plants are fruiting, I put a plant marker next to the best producers. As soon as our strawberry plants finish fruiting and start to send out very long thin stems, I clear away the mulch to make it easier for the plants to take root. I then give the bed a drink of seaweed extract tea. Seaweed contains compounds that encourage root growth and build disease resistance.
At the end of each runner a small plant will form and tiny white roots will appear at the base (see photo A). Vigorous runners can produce two or three plantlets along each runner. I anchor plantlets from the best parent plants to the soil surface by placing a stone on the runner on the parent side of the plant. If the plantlet does not make good contact with soil, the roots will brown and the plantlet will die or grow poorly. Merely anchoring the plantlet to the soil surface allows the crown of the plant to sit on the soil surface where it should be. Strawberry crowns that become buried will rot.
When the plantlet has produced a strong root system (see photo B), the runner connecting it to the parent plant can be severed with secateurs or a sharp knife.
The new plant can then be left to grow where it is, or moved to another part of the bed so that all the plants have good air circulation. If I move new plants, I dig a wide shallow hole for each plant so that I can spread out the roots before covering them, and ensure that the crowns sit on the soil surface. I also remove all but one or two of the youngest leaves as this reduces any wilting after transplanting. I usually pot up some runners for spares too, just in case. Then, all that is required is regular watering and an occasional drink of manure tea until the plants are growing strongly. I don’t usually mulch them in autumn as the bare soil stays warmer and encourages the plants to produce plenty of healthy foliage so that next season’s berries will be hidden from birds.
Purists advise that runners should only be taken from plants that have not fruited because other plants are likely to be infected with strawberry virus. An aphid spreads this virus and we have never had aphids on our strawberry plants. As long as you use only runners from healthy, vigorous plants and use organic cultivation methods, there should not be a problem with runners that have fruited.

4 thoughts on “Propagating Strawberries

  1. Can anybody tell me if there is a supplier of organic strawberry runners in NSW from whom I can order online? If not, other states of-course will be helpful, too.

    Carly, have you tried either of these places? – Lyn


    Red Jewel

  2. Could anybody please help me with a monthly moon propogation guide, as I would like to start a small business doing this, but am not having much of a strike rate at the pesent. I do cuttings,suckers and seed, so if anybody could help, a monthly posting with info for everybody to see would be sensational.
    Cheers, Narelle

    Narelle, It takes a long time to calculate and put together a moon planting guide, and I’m sure you wouldn’t expect other people to do all this work for nothing. They need to make a living too. You can purchase Thomas Zimmer’s Astrological Calendar & Moon Planting Guide 2009 (by clicking on the WAHMania link on the right hand side of my blog).
    Or, you can order my book (by clicking on the buy the book panel on the right). It has all the best days for taking cuttings and every other method of propagation until the end of 2013. – Lyn

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