Organic fertilisers

I sometimes hear garden experts say that organic fertilisers are not as high in nutrients as chemical fertilisers, so you have to use more of them. This is simply not true.
The American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS) reported in February, 2009 that hundreds of studies have shown that “incrementally higher levels of fertilizer negatively impact the density of certain nutrients in harvested foodstuffs.” They also reported that the complex way in which nitrogen is absorbed in organic cultivation results in more efficient assimilation of the nutrient, allowing organically grown plants more energy to produce antioxidants, and the formation of less nitrates. Nitrates in food can form carcinogenic nitrosamines in the digestive tract.
AAAS Conclusions

Excess use of nitrogen fertilisers (including uncomposted manures and manure teas) promotes bursts of soft, sappy growth that is much loved by chewing and sap-sucking garden pests. Overuse of a particular nutrient can block the absorption of other nutrients. Nitrogen and phosphorus compete for absorption. Overuse of chemical nitrogen fertilisers can also result in deficiency of the less mobile phosphorus.
Organic fertilisers don’t need to be as high in nutrients. Organic fertilisers made from a variety of recycled organic matter will contain a full range of major nutrients and trace elements. Organic fertilisers in the form of compost, castings from worm farms, animal manures, leaf mould, and broken down green manure crops and organic mulch add humus to soil, but chemical fertilisers do not.
Humus, the most stable form of organic matter, consists of electrically charged particles called ions. Nutrient elements also carry a weak electrical charge. Humus has a large surface area and many charged sites to hold nutrient elements through electrostatic force where they are easily accessible to plants, and regulate their absorption so that nutrients are not absorbed by plants in toxic quantities. Humus also provides a habitat for a group of beneficial fungi that assist nutrition in a wide range of perennial plant families. Some chemical fertilisers, such as superphosphate, suppress the activity of these fungi and other beneficial soil organisms.
Although clay particles in soil also carry an electrical charge and are capable of holding some nutrients, without humus in soil, phosphorus can become locked up with iron, manganese or aluminium, and unavailable to plants, and nitrogen and sulphur can leach from soil.
A suitable soil pH plays an important role in efficient absorption of a full range of nutrients. Adding extra fertiliser when soil is too acid or alkaline for particular species of plants will not help their growth. Humus in soil assists in maintaining a suitable pH. See:Changing soil pH

Although we tend to worry about plants getting enough fertiliser, fertiliser plays a relatively small, but essential, part in plant growth. The major contributors to plant energy are water and carbon dioxide. In the presence of sunlight, the green parts of plants can convert these into carbohydrates, which form the cell structure of plants. You could say, in fact, that plants are solar powered.

What’s soil pH?

Soil pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of soil from an extremely acid pH of 0 to an extremely alkaline pH of 14. A soil pH of 7 is neutral, neither acid not alkaline. Knowing the pH of your garden soil is important because soil pH controls the availability of nutrients and the number of microorganisms that improve soil structure. Plants can only absorb nutrients as electrically charged “ions” that attach themselves to clay and organic matter ions with the opposite electrical charge. Depending on the level of acidity or alkalinity of soil, varying amounts of different nutrients can be taken up by plant roots. At some pH levels, nutrients can become bound to other elements, or to soil, and become “locked out” and unavailable to plants. All the major nutrients are only freely available to plants within a narrow soil pH range of 6.5 to 7.5, where essential trace elements are also available, and aluminium is locked out. (See pH Table below) Most vegetables and exotics will remain healthy if grown in a pH range of 6.0–7.0, but potatoes and strawberries do best when pH is around 5.5, and Brassicas and beetroot require a pH close to neutral. However, few plants will survive when the soil pH is below 4.5 where major nutrients are strictly limited and trace elements become available in toxic quantities, or above 9.0 where calcium becomes insoluble.
On the pH scale, the “p” stands for potential, and “H” is the chemical symbol for hydrogen. The more acidic your soil is, the more hydrogen ions in your soil. As hydrogen ions are replaced by calcium ions on the charged sites, soil pH rises. Just to make it confusing, the pH scale is shown as a negative logarithm so that the more hydrogen ions in topsoil, the lower the pH number. Because soil pH is expressed as a logarithm, a pH of 6.0 is ten times more acid than a pH of 7.0, and a pH of 5.0 is a hundred times more acid than 7.0. Adjusting pH without the buffering effect of decomposed organic matter is difficult.
Testing for pH level
The only way to find the exact pH of garden soil is to test it. The Manutec Test Kit is quite economical to use, is available from most large nurseries. I’ve found this test kit to be very reliable and have used it since it was first developed by the CSIRO.
Testing involves taking samples of topsoil from across the growing area, and mixing them thoroughly in a bucket. A small sample of the mixture is placed on a supplied sheet and moistened with a liquid dye. The damp mixture is then dusted with barium sulphate, and the resulting colour matched to a pH range on the kit’s colour chart.
***All garden soils should be tested at least annually, because exudates from plant roots and the decomposition of organic matter release hydrogen ions into the soil, replacing calcium ions and increasing acidity.

 

Changing soil pH

If the pH of garden beds needs adjusting, organic gardeners have a distinct advantage over “chemical” gardeners, because mature compost has a pH of about 6.5 where all the major nutrients are freely available to plants, essential trace elements are available, and aluminium is locked out. Adding mature compost to topsoil when preparing beds will help to lower pH of alkaline soils, and raise the pH of more acid soils, as well as buffering plant roots from an unsuitable pH in surrounding soil. Where the amount of mature compost is limited, green manures and well-rotted manures will break down to add nutrients, microorganisms and humus to topsoil. Worm castings and other solid organic fertilisers provide nutrients in easily absorbed form. Garden beds should be prepared a month before planting to allow soil chemistry to achieve a balance.

To raise soil pH
In all acid soils, pH can be raised by the combined use of organic matter and the addition of calcium ions in the form of dolomite or lime.
Agricultural lime – (Calcium carbonate) is finely ground limestone (chalk). Mined limestone, i.e. not chemically treated, is a safe choice to raise pH in garden beds. Although it takes several weeks to have an effect, it is longer acting than other sources of lime, and can be watered in around plants. Agricultural lime can be worked into the top 15 cm of soil when preparing garden beds. It takes less lime to raise the pH of sandy soils than it does to change clay soils. To avoid an excess amount of calcium in soil, apply as recommended in the test kit, and test soil a month later.
I must say here that I have not found the application rate recommended by Manutec for “organic soils” to be accurate, if soils contain compost. It may have been calculated for soils where only manures are added.
Dolomite – (Calcium magnesium carbonate) is limestone with a higher proportion of magnesium than agricultural lime, and is applied in the same way. It is a good way to raise soil pH on sandy soils with fairly low organic matter content because both calcium and magnesium leach easily from these soils. In soils with high magnesium content, such as in South East Queensland, agricultural lime is the preferred way to raise soil pH.
Quick lime – (Calcium oxide) is made by heating limestone in a furnace to remove carbon dioxide. It is very caustic and unsuitable for garden use.
Hydrated or slaked lime – (Calcium hydroxide) is also known as brickies or builders’ lime because it is used to harden mortar. Hydrated lime is made by soaking quick lime in water to form hydroxides. It is more soluble and faster acting than agricultural lime, but its effects do not last as long. This lime can burn roots and should not be used on beds that contain plants. It should also be applied a month before organic matter and fertilisers or nitrogen can be lost through conversion to ammonia. Gloves and a mask should be worn when applying hydrated lime because it is very drying to skin and throat. Apply hydrated lime to the soil surface, and water it in.

To lower soil pH
Adding organic matter as compost, green manures, and animal manures, without including lime or dolomite, can be enough to adjust the pH of slightly alkaline soils because organic matter produces hydrogen ions as it decomposes.
Manure from cows, horses and sheep that have grazed on herbicide-free pasture can be used more liberally on alkaline soils. It has been calculated that 2–3 kilos of manure per square metre of bed area will reduce soil pH from 8.0 to 7.0. Manures release hydrogen ions as they break down, replacing calcium ions on the charged sites.
Elemental sulphur, sometimes sold as flowers of sulphur, will assist organic matter in reducing soil pH in more alkaline soils. Elemental sulphur is available from produce stores, and some nurseries. For soils with a sandy structure, apply at 35 g per square metre, or 100g per square metre for clay soils. Test soil after one month, to see if further applications are necessary.
Please note – Lime sulphur is a fungicide, not a soil conditioner.
Acidic fertiliser can assist when alkaline topsoil contains some organic matter and herbicide-free manures are not available. Multicrop’s Ecofish liquid fertiliser is registered by NASAA as an input for organic cultivation. The concentrate is very acidic and diluting it in water should modify the acidity, somewhat. It can be watered into the soil or used as a foliar feed for plants in alkaline soils.

The importance of humus

Soil without humus is lifeless – it’s dead soil. Humus, the indigestible part of decomposed organic matter, literally converts soil into a living thing because it provides a habitat for beneficial fungi that feed nutrients to many plant families, and microorganisms that keep soil-borne plant diseases under control. It also keeps soil more moisture retentive, yet better drained; improves soil structure; holds nutrients in a form that is easily absorbed by plants; insulates plant roots by keeping topsoil cooler in summer and warmer in winter, and acts as a buffer against extremes in soil pH through a complex exchange of electrically-charged particles in soil. Regular replacement of humus in soil is absolutely essential to healthy plant growth. Humus can be added to soil as compost, green manures, well-rotted, herbifierous animal manures, poultry manures, organic mulches, decaying roots and plants.
The vegetable garden will require the lion’s share of organic matter, but it is very important to fruit trees, and many foreign plants, too. Many Australian natives prefer humus supplied through leaf litter, or leaf mould. Plants from arid soil areas have evolved to require only small amounts of humus.

Applying compost

The best way to add humus to your garden soil is mature compost, which is a mixture of worm castings, beneficial microorganisms, and humus. Compost is not only a fertiliser; it stimulates soil organism activity by providing them with food. Compost made from a variety of sources contains all the nutrient elements required by plants but, for those of us that don’t have an unlimited supply of compost, green manures are an excellent substitute.
In vegetable gardens, a 3–5 cm layer of compost can be applied to beds and mixed into the top 15 cm of soil. If mature compost is in short supply, adding compost to the planting hole or furrow when planting out seedlings or sowing seed will get your plants off to a flying start. Compost can be applied this way to flowering annual and spring bulb beds, too.
Under fruit trees, and around roses and herbaceous perennials, compost should be applied to a damp soil surface under the outer part of the tree or plant foliage canopy – i.e. not close to the trunk. Don’t scratch it into the surface. Many trees and shrubs have feeder roots close to the soil surface and these are easily damaged. If you have plenty of compost, it can replace the tree’s fertiliser, except for an annual application of seaweed tea. If you don’t have a lot of compost, it can form part of the fertiliser application. Every bit of compost that you can spare is very valuable.
The compost should then be covered with 5 – 8 cm of organic mulch to keep the compost damp – also keeping the mulch well clear of the trunk. When compost dries out it loses a lot of its benefits. The mulch will break down to contribute to good garden loam, but its most primary function is to keep the soil surface and compost damp.
If you apply compost annually under your fruit trees and shrubs, you will find that “so-so soil” will steadily convert to dark, sweet-smelling loam full of earthworms – just the type of soil these plants love. Your trees and shrubs will also be more resistant to pests and diseases.

Growing green manures

Green manures are an easy, cheap way to produce organic matter for soil by growing grains until they are knee high, or inoculated legumes* until they start to flower, then slashing them, and leaving them, as organic mulch, on the soil surface to break down, or slashing them into smaller pieces and digging them into the top 10 cm of soil. Suitable green manure crops for each season and climate zone are included in ‘What to grow’ that is posted on this blog each month.
For those unfamiliar with growing green manures, step-by-step guides can be found in my book, Easy Organic Gardening and Moon Planting, or in the March/April 2008 issue of Warm Earth magazine.
If planning to use the bed immediately after slashing the green manure, digging fresh, organic matter into topsoil can cause a temporary nitrogen deficiency, as soil bacteria require nitrogen to break down the materials, then nitrogen then becomes available for your crops. Apply some complete organic fertiliser to the bed so that nutrients are immediately available to your plants.
* Inoculating legume seed enables the legume to fix nitrogen efficiently by introducing the nitrogen-fixing bacteria to soil. Uninoculated legumes can be still be grown as green manures to supply organic matter. (See post on Fixing nitrogen.)